North Jutland Coast - Thursday 22nd - Tuesday 26th June 2017
The plan was to start cycling North from Frederikshavn and follow the coast to Skagen, the most northerly town in Denmark and then along the North coast to Hirtshals to get the ferry to the Faroe Islands next Tuesday. Lucy had been reading about the numerous bunkers remaining from WW2 dotted around the coast and she became engrossed in the history of North Jutland. Legoland was totally forgotten, at least for this stage of the journey
So, as it was only midday when the ferry docked, I cycled South to find the Bangsbo Fort Bunker Museum, high on a cliff top and learn more about them. Part of the fort is still used by the Danish navy and there were several restricted areas.
There are two seas around the coast of N. Denmark, The Skatterak between Denmark and Norway and the Kattegat between Denmark and Sweden. They are the gateway from the North Atlantic to the Baltic Sea, so it was important for the Germans in Denmark to defend the coastline. Later during the Cold War more bunkers were erected by the Danes and used by the Danish military.
I cycled back to Frederikshavn and found somewhere to stay and continued on my planned route to Skagen on Friday morning. The above photo was taken from my window at about 11.30 pm.
The cycle path to Skagen - Friday 23rd June
Heavy rain was forecast for the afternoon so I had an early breakfast and got on my way. The cycle path was very easy to follow and led me on paths directly to Skagen through pine forests and sand dunes.
I stopped for lunch at a 'Primitive Campsite' in a clearing in a wood. It is illegal to pitch a tent anywhere in Denmark that is not an official camp site, so wild camping is not allowed. But in Jutland there are 'Primitive campsites run by the Naturstyrelsen, where you can pitch a tent for one night, then you have to move on. They have an area to light fires, some times there is a tap and covered shelters where you can sleep. But there are no toilet facilities.
I also planned to stop at the Tilsandede Kirke (the sand covered church) but as rain was threatening I decided to carry on. So glad I did because it tipped down about 200 metres from my destination. I checked in and wandered around the town, discovered the church and spent the evening at the harbour.
Skagen is a popular tourist town and was home to a colony of artists in the late 1800s known as the Skagen Painters. I can see why they congregated there as the light, the buildings and the seascapes are all fabulous. All the buildings are painted yellow, with white window frames and terracotta roofs. Beautiful.
As well as the expensive yachts, Skagen is a working harbour and is the main fishing port in Denmark, so there were a lot of large boats to be seen.
Lucy's Weekend in Skagen - Saturday 24th and Sunday 25th June
Mid-Summer's Eve and Day are the biggest Public Holiday of the year in Sweden, and people were busy getting ready for it when I left. It isn't celebrated in Denmark, but marks the beginning of the holiday period, so everywhere has suddenly become a lot busier with Danish, Swedish and German tourists. I have only met 3 English people so far this trip and one of them was a very drunk guy last night. He was staggering about and jumping onto the biggest yachts in the harbour and was either thrown off or he crawled off. Oh to be English on holiday!
Hvor de to have mødes - Where two seas meet
Lucy!s plan for the day was to go to the furthest point North in Denmark. This is where thr Skatterak Sea and the Kattegat meet. I wasn't sure whether to cycle there or get the bus, but Lucy wanted to walk. She took me on a fabulous route along the sea shore and past lots of bunkers, some buried in the sand. Finally we arrived at the meeting of the seas, it was breathtaking and you could see the line where the more gentle Kattegat met a raging Skatterak. You could wade out a bit and stand with one foot in each sea, quite a magical experience. And just to prove that I really am on this trip, here is a rare selfie.
Lucy rushed off and sneaked a ride on the tractor bus that takes tourists along the sand. I decided to walk along the North coast, a great expanse of sand, dunes and sea. I had to keep stopping as I couldn't quite believe how vast and beautiful it was but was unable to capture it properly in a photograph.
I stopped to chat to a couple from Sweden who had somehow managed to ride their bikes there and then found Lucy sitting amongst the sand dunes looking at the sea.
That night I decided to treat myself to a meal in one of the harbour restaurants. By this time the wind had increased dramatically and was gusting at over 40 mph. All the restaurants were full inside so I joined the hardy Danes and sat outside wrapped in the blankets that were provide. It was a great meal, but I have no idea how the food stayed on the plate.
Sunday in Skagen
I spent most of the day taking photographs of the fabulous buildings in Skagen and at the art gallery looking at the fine collection of works by the Skagen Painters. I particularly liked the special exhibition of current work by a Swedish artist, Jacob Rantzau, who was inspired by the 1884 painting 'Launching the Boat' by Oscar Björack.
Rantzau worked on his project between 2013 & 2015 and hundreds of his sketches were displayed as well as the finished works.
One of his larger sketches which in many ways I preferred to the final painting. Afterwards I had a late Sunday lunch and a final walk along the harbour. Lucy and I really enjoyed our time in Skagen, it is a wonderful place.
A Day to Remember - Monday 26th June 2017
I followed the cycle path West along the North Sea to Hirtshals where the ferry departs for the Faroe Islands. The sun was out all day, the sky was blue, and the cycle path wound through open countryside very close to the sea. It should have been idyllic, BUT .... there was a 50 mph head wind all day. I think it is one of the toughest 46 miles that I have ever cycled. Luckily the route was off-road so there was no danger of being blown into any traffic, but it was hard to control the bike at times.
I stopped to look at the sand covered church that I missed earlier. All that remains is the tower and there are posts to mark the outline of the church that is now buried beneath the sand. Lucy is sitting on one of the posts. I also stopped for lunch at another 'Primitive Campsite', right on the edge of the North Sea and made a detour to look at the sea.
At one point the path became so soft that it was impossible to ride, but as I was pushing my bike a couple of locals came along and led me onto a quiet lane that took me the final 10 miles into Hirtshals. They said the path had been resurfaced and hadn't bedded in yet.
I had to cycle near the ferry port and again I had to walk as the wind was side on and it was impossible to keep the bike upright. The sand was blowing in my face and I was praying that the storm would die down before I boarded for the 34 hour crossing in the morning. My face was stinging and I had sand in my hair, in my eyes, up my nose and in my ears and teeth. Definitely a day to remember.
I am writing this in the Faroe Islands where they are very proud of their mobile phone coverage which reaches every part of even the remotest island, but I am unable to use it as they are not in the EU so cannot use my roaming package that gives me unlimited usage in the EU. The wifi coverage where I am staying is intermittent so I will only be able to post and email people occasionally during the next three weeks.
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