Denmark - 3

DENMARK - 3

North Jutland Coast - Thursday 22nd - Tuesday 26th June 2017

The plan was to start cycling North from Frederikshavn and follow the coast to Skagen, the most northerly town in Denmark and then along the North coast to Hirtshals to get the ferry to the Faroe Islands next Tuesday.  Lucy had been reading about the numerous bunkers remaining from WW2  dotted around the coast and she became engrossed in the history of North Jutland. Legoland was totally forgotten, at least for this stage of the journey 

 So, as it was only midday when the ferry docked, I cycled South to find the Bangsbo Fort Bunker Museum, high on a cliff top and learn more about them. Part of the fort is still used by the Danish navy and there were several restricted areas.

There are two seas around the coast of N. Denmark,  The Skatterak between Denmark and Norway and the Kattegat between Denmark and Sweden. They  are the gateway from the North Atlantic to the Baltic Sea, so it was important for the Germans in Denmark to defend the coastline. Later during the Cold War more bunkers were erected by the Danes and used by the Danish military. 

I cycled back to Frederikshavn and found somewhere to stay and continued on my planned route to Skagen on Friday morning. The above photo was taken from my window at about 11.30 pm. 

The cycle path to Skagen - Friday 23rd June 

Heavy rain was forecast for the afternoon so I had an early breakfast and got on my way. The cycle path was very easy to follow and led  me on paths directly to Skagen through pine forests and sand dunes. 

I stopped for lunch at a 'Primitive Campsite' in a clearing in a wood. It is illegal to pitch a tent anywhere in Denmark that is not an official camp site, so wild camping is not allowed. But in Jutland there are 'Primitive campsites run by the Naturstyrelsen, where you can pitch a tent for one night, then you have to move on. They have an area to light fires, some times there is a tap and covered shelters where you can sleep. But there are no toilet facilities. 

I also planned to stop at the Tilsandede Kirke (the sand covered church) but as rain was threatening I decided to carry on. So glad I did because it tipped down about 200 metres from my destination. I checked in and wandered around the town, discovered the church and spent the evening at the harbour. 

Skagen is a popular tourist town and was home to a colony of artists in the late 1800s known as the Skagen Painters. I can see why they congregated there as the light, the buildings and the seascapes are all fabulous. All the buildings are painted yellow, with white window frames and terracotta roofs. Beautiful. 

As well as the expensive yachts, Skagen is a working harbour and is the main fishing port in Denmark, so there were a lot of large boats to be seen.

Lucy's Weekend in Skagen - Saturday 24th and Sunday 25th June

Mid-Summer's Eve and Day are the biggest Public Holiday of the year in Sweden, and people were busy getting ready for it when I left. It isn't celebrated in Denmark, but marks the beginning of the holiday period, so everywhere has suddenly become a lot busier with Danish, Swedish and German tourists. I have only met 3 English people so far this trip and one of them was a very drunk guy last night. He was staggering about and jumping onto the biggest yachts in the harbour and was either thrown off or he crawled off. Oh to be English on holiday!

Hvor de to have mødes  - Where two seas meet

Lucy!s plan for the day was to go to the furthest point North in Denmark. This is where thr Skatterak Sea and the Kattegat meet. I wasn't sure whether to cycle there or get the bus, but Lucy wanted to walk. She took me on a fabulous route along the sea shore and past lots of bunkers, some buried in the sand. Finally we arrived at the meeting of the seas, it was breathtaking and you could see the line where the more gentle Kattegat met a raging Skatterak. You could wade out a bit and stand with one foot in each sea, quite a magical experience. And just to prove that I really am on this trip, here is a rare selfie.

Lucy rushed off and sneaked a ride on the tractor bus that takes tourists along the sand. I decided to walk along the North coast, a great expanse of sand, dunes and sea. I had to keep stopping as I couldn't quite believe how vast and beautiful it was but was unable to capture it properly in a photograph.

I stopped to chat to a couple from Sweden who had somehow managed to ride their bikes there and then  found Lucy sitting amongst the sand dunes looking at the sea. 

That night I decided to treat myself to a meal in one of the harbour restaurants. By this time the wind had increased dramatically and was gusting at over 40 mph. All the restaurants were full inside so I joined the hardy Danes and sat outside wrapped in the blankets that were  provide. It was a great meal, but I have no idea how the food stayed on the plate.

Sunday in Skagen

I spent most of the day taking photographs of the fabulous buildings in Skagen and at the art gallery looking at the fine collection of works by the Skagen Painters. I particularly liked the special exhibition of current work by a Swedish artist, Jacob Rantzau, who was inspired by the 1884 painting 'Launching the Boat' by Oscar Björack. 

Rantzau worked on his project between 2013 & 2015 and hundreds of his sketches were displayed as well as the finished works. 

One of his larger sketches which in many ways I preferred to the final painting. Afterwards I had a late Sunday lunch and a final walk along the harbour. Lucy and  I really enjoyed our time in Skagen, it is a wonderful place. 

A Day to Remember - Monday 26th June 2017

I followed the cycle path West along the North Sea to Hirtshals where the ferry departs for the Faroe Islands. The sun was out all day, the sky was blue, and the cycle path wound through open countryside very close to the sea. It should have been idyllic,  BUT .... there was a 50 mph head wind all day. I think it is one of the toughest 46 miles that I have ever cycled. Luckily the route was off-road so there was no danger of being blown into any traffic, but it was hard to control the bike at times. 

I stopped to look at the sand covered church that I missed earlier. All that remains is the tower and there are posts to mark the outline of the church that is now buried beneath the sand. Lucy is sitting on one of the posts. I also stopped for lunch at another 'Primitive Campsite', right on the edge of the North Sea and made a detour to look at the sea.

At one point the path became so soft  that it was impossible to ride, but as I was pushing my bike a couple of locals came along and led me onto a quiet lane that took me the final 10 miles into Hirtshals. They said the path had been resurfaced and hadn't bedded in yet. 

I had to cycle near the ferry port and again I had to walk as the wind was side on and it was impossible to keep the bike upright. The sand was blowing in my face and I was praying that the storm would die down before I boarded for the 34 hour crossing in the morning. My face was stinging and I had sand in my hair, in my eyes, up my nose and in my ears and teeth. Definitely a day to remember. 

I am writing this in the Faroe Islands where they are very proud of their mobile phone coverage which reaches every part of even the remotest island, but I am unable to use it as they are not in the EU so cannot use my roaming package that gives me unlimited usage in the EU. The wifi coverage where I am staying is intermittent so I will only be able to post and email people occasionally during the next three weeks. 

Sweden - 2

SWEDEN - 2

Getterön - Göteborg - Sunday 18th - Thursday 22nd June 2017

 

Celebrating Ann's Birthday - Sunday 18th June 

I started the  day on Getterön sitting in the garden sketching while Lucy and I wished Ann a Happy Birthday. Then I walked around the perimeter of the Peninsula and had a late lunch in the cafe near the nature reserve. The name Getterön dates back to the Vikings, which pleased Lucy. It is popularly known as Stora Gubbanäsan (Old man's nose) because of its shape. It was an island until 1936 when a causeway was built across from the mainland. It is a quiet holiday island away from the bustle and crowded beaches at Varberg. There is a caravan park at one end with its own beach which I kept away from, lots of beautiful holiday chalets dotted along the coast, a small shop and a beach restaurant. Most of the island is a nature reserve which was almost deserted so I spent a great part of the day walking around it.

 

It was beautiful, although about the only sign of nature I saw, apart from a few sea birds and lots of wild flowers, was when Lucy stumbled over a couple of naked people hidden in the long grass. 

 

She was very indignant when I asked her if she needed a hand over one of the styles. She replied that she thought that I needed help more than she did, so she helped me to climb over. 

It was a great way to spend Ann's birthday, and I am sure she was, as always, looking down on us smiling.

Two more days along the Kattegattleden - Monday 19th and Tuesday 20th June

The next two days were spent cycling the final stretch of the Kattegattleden and once again it was beautiful. My first stop was at a nature reserve  where Lucy rushed off to one of the hides while I had a cup of coffee. She had read that it is one of the most important bird sanctuaries in Northern Europe.

So it was quite a contrast when I  cycled past a nuclear power station and alongside a busy railway line. This time Lucy  stayed safely in her pannier and didn't make any unexpected appearances. What surprises me is that the railway lines are not often fenced and there is little warning when you come to a level crossing.

I spent the night at a 'Bed and Bike' guest house. I had a room in the attic with a kitchen and bathroom that I shared with a couple who were also cycling along the Kattegattleden. In the morning I found out that to qualify for 'Bed and Bike' status you have to be flexible about arrival times for cyclists, offer secure cycle storage, provide cycle hire and be able to transport people and bikes so that guests can ride the route with the help of the prevailing wind. I also chatted to Rosie, one of the other cyclists,  who was involved in  planning the route and  was riding it to check it and look for any possible improvements. I took her details and said that Lucy would write an article about it when she gets home: 'The Kattegattleden from a bicycle pannier'.

I certainly haven't had any help from the wind on this section of the ride and my last day on the Kattegattleden was spent riding into gusts of over 40 mph. But as it followed very close to the sea for a lot of the way I didn't mind as there were some fabulous views and lots of places to stop and sit. Lucy was very alarmed when she saw this sign, and stayed well hidden. For someone who wants to be a Viking warrior she is quite feeble at times. 

I thought she had forgotten about the obsession with golf that she developed when we were in Scotland, but once again she leapt out of her pannier when we passed a golf course, and wanted to know why we hadn't packed her golf clubs.  

The last 10 to 15 miles followed a well marked path along the coast and then straight into the centre of Gothenburg. I was feeling a little bit sad that I was getting to the end of this fabulous Swedish cycle route.

I remember writing that it wasn't a good idea to cycle in Copenhagen in the rush hour. Well the same applies to Gothenburg and I arrived just as people were going home from work. There were cyclists and people coming from all directions, and this time there were also trams to avoid. I found where I had booked for a couple of nights, and once again I had an upgrade to a superior room that was fabulous. It had a huge bay window with a seating area overlooking the theatre district, so I spent the evening in the 'Stage Door Bar' while Lucy planned what she wanted to see in Gothenburg.

Lucy enjoys the Summer Solstice in Göteborg - 21st June

Lucy had been reading about Gothenburg while sitting in her pannier as I cycled along and insisted that I wrote and pronounced it the Swedish way because Gothenburg, like Copenhagen, is one of the few Scandinavian place names that have been anglicised. It should be Göteborg and pronounced Yoteboy, with the final y similar to ch in the Scottish pronunciation of loch.

 Lucy wanted to make the most of her day in the city and rushed off to Götaplatsen to see the Poseidon Statue which overlooks the city. It is in the middle of the square surrounded on three sides by the Theatre, Concert Hall and Art Gallery. Lucy sat chatting to people and admiring the view while I went to the Konstmiseum to look at the wonderful collection of Nordic Art. As always it is hard to decide which painting to show here, so I have chosen one that I think Lucy would like and also one of the many modern  sculptures that I know she would love.

Gustaf  Fjæstad - Snö (1900) and a dancer that revolved around her pole in the centre of the gallery. 

I met up with Lucy again in the bar of the Stadttheater and she told me that we were going to walk down the hill, across the Göta River to the harbour as she wanted to talk to a dog belonging to some fishermen outside the Fish Church Market. The Feskekorka is so named as the 1874 building that houses the market looks like a Neo-Gothic church. 

The afternoon was spent around the harbour and sitting in cafes, before I walked back to the room to get ready for a very early start in the morning and Lucy had a last look at her Swedish souvenirs. A great way to spend my last day in Sweden, I am so pleased Lucy persuaded me to come here when we were in Copenhagen. Tomorrow we plan to get the early morning ferry to Frederikshavn in Denmark.

Sweden - 1

SWEDEN - 1

 

Helsingborg to Getterön - 12th - 17th June 2017

 

Arriving in Sweden - Monday 12th June

I realised that I could still use my Copenhagen card to travel the 30 kms by train to Helsingør so I checked about bicycles and there seemed to be no problem taking them on the train. I found the bicycle carriage, wheeled my bike on and strapped the bicycle seat belt around it. All very easy and bicycle friendly, the guard accepted my card  and all seemed fine. But, about 20 minutes later, she came back and asked if I had a bicycle. Although I had checked that bikes travelled free on the trains, apparently not on that one and she said I should have bought a ticket for it and the fine for not having one was 1000 DKK (about £120). I told her I had checked on line etc, she asked for my ID and pondered for a while. Eventually she said that she would meet me at the station and go with me to buy a ticket for 25 DKK. So I waited for her when I got off, but she didn't turn up. The women I'd been talking to on the train said they thought she was being nice to me and was letting me off. So I cycled out of the station to look at Kronberg castle, famous for being Hamlet's Elsinore Castle. As the Danish Maritime Museum and the Hamlet Theatre are closed on Mondays I bought a ferry ticket for me and the bike, and sailed to Helsingborg in Sweden.

 

Once again it was a misty, grey day for the ferry crossing, so when I arrived I found somewhere to stay, sorted out some Swedish money and Lucy, who had hidden during the no ticket episode on the train, insisted that I bought a bicycle bell. She had read that there was an on-the-spot fine if you didn't have one in Sweden. I wandered up to Kärran Castle and had an evening stroll along the harbour wall to look at the wild sea and admire the stylish harbour architecture while Lucy tried to get her tongue around the Swedish language.

 

Fem Dagar Längs Västkusten - 13 - 17 Juni

(Five days along the West coast)

 

First Day Cycling in Sweden - Tuesday 13th June

I began my ride North along the West Coast  (längsvästkusten) and knew I would be following the sea to Gothenburg for the next week or so. There was a 40mph wind which made it tough at times, but the sun was out, the sky was blue and the light was fabulous. I met several cyclists travelling South to the ferry including a young man from Oxford who was doing his first ever long-distance ride. He had flown to Oslo and had plans to cycle in 26 countries to raise money for a hospice in memory of his grand father. His front panniers were very wobbly and he was worried that they might fall off if he hit a pothole, so I gave him some black tape to wrap around the carrier to make the clip  more secure.

 

I stopped for the night at a conference centre on an old airbase, with a Flygmuseum near Ängelholm. The following is for my V-CC friends.While I was there I thought that the centre would make a fabulous venue for next year's Summer Camp. Ensuite rooms, reasonably priced, (and I am sure we could negotiate a deal) kitchen areas, plenty of space for camping, cycle storage, cycle hire, great breakfasts, an aircraft museum amd cafes & restaurant on site. And of course fabulous cycling. Anyone up for it? 

Over the Hallandsås - Wednesday 14th June

 

The Hallandsås is a ridge that rises from the coast inland and forms the border between the regions of Skåne in the far South of Sweden and Halland. People had been warning me about it so I was prepared for a long walk, but my new small chain ring came into its own and I sat back and slowly wound my way up to the top cycling through pine trees, and past waterfalls, streams, farms and stylish houses with a fabulous descent back to the flat agricultural land on the other side. 

 

Just before I started the climb I spotted what I though was a cafe, but when I went in I discovered that it was a toy shop. Outside was an Austin A30 belonging to the owner's mother-in-law, who had it as a 50th birthday present. So while I chatted about cars and  how either four or five of us had slept in an A30 back in the 1960s Lucy played in the shop. She loved it.

 

My destination for the night was Skummeslövsstrand, a beautiful sandy bay, and just before I reached it I saw Skummeslövskyrka, a 12th century church. The sun came out so I sat in the immaculate churchyard and enjoyed the view. Unfortunately it was locked, but some people came to change the flowers inside and let me go in to have a look. Fabulous.

 

Later that night I went for a long walk along the beach and waited for the sun to set over the sea. A perfect end to a perfect day.

 

Three days along the Kattegattleden - 15th - 17th June

 

The Kattegat Strait is the sea between Denmark and Sweden. A new cycle path was opened two years ago and follows the sea for 370 km  to Gothenburg. It is a well-marked, well-signed route that twists through forests, along almost traffic-free agricultural roads, along paths very close to the sea and occasionally on a busy road. My first three days following the brown signs took me to Varberg via Halmstad and Falkenberg. The weather was varied and the first day was cold, windy and damp. So I was very pleased that I was able to understand the following sign.

 

I went in to investigate and claimed my free drink as a Kattegattsledenscyklist. It was a very welcome break. I strolled across the road to look at the stormy sea and then continued on my way.

 

Over the next couple of days the weather improved and even the wind dropped a bit and I left Falkenberg in bright sunshine to  ride the 56 km to Varberg.

 

Lucy rarely comes out when the weather is cold or wet and hibernates in her pannier reading about where we are going. Although she did venture out at Varberg for an ice cream. 

 

Varberg is a popular seaside resort with long sandy beaches that were very crowded when I cycled past them. Until 1645 this coastal part of Sweden was part of Denmark and Varberg fortress was erected in the 1280s as part of a chain of military establishments along the coast. I left the crowds, fast-food stores, restaurants and caravan parks behind and continued NW of Varberg to the Peninsula of Getterön where I  decided to stay for the weekend.

 

 I settled in to a delightful chalet B&B overlooking a deserted beach and went to explore. I walked along the beach and on my way back I admired some of the fabulous Swedish holiday homes. 

 

 

 

I went to sleep happily looking forward to a relaxing Sunday by the sea.